Can you please tell me the difference between Boxer Primed and Berden Primed Ammunition?
Thank you Snow Dog
30-06 Wolf (WPA Military) Non-Corrosive Lacquered Steel Case Berden Primed Ammo ....
8mm Mauser Romanian made in the 70's Berden Primed Lacquered Steel Case FMJ Ball Ammo ....
223 Wolf Boxer Primed Ammo ....
7.62x39 Brass Berden Primed Ammo ....
7.26x51 New Aguila Brass Case Boxer Primed Non-Magnetic Ammo ....
7.62x54R (308) Military Surplus Ammo ....
Answer:
A similar question has been asked before, but here is the answer to your specific question:
The primary difference is one can be reloaded and one cannot.
Berden Primed and Boxer Primed Ammo are both considered Centerfire Ammunition.
The Two Primer types are almost impossible to distinguish apart by looking at the loaded cartridge, although 2 flash holes can be seen inside a Berden Primed fired cartridge case.
Berden Primed ammunition is much less expensive to manufacture and is commonly found in Military Surplus ammo made outside the USA. Berden Primed Cartridges can be reloaded but the process is difficult and most people don't bother.
Boxer Primed Cartridges are common in commercial ammo and can be easily reloaded as long as the shell cartridge is not damaged. Boxer Primed Ammo is slightly more complex to manufacture and more costly. Boxer primers are similar to Berdan primers with one major difference: The location of the anvil. In a Boxer Primer, the anvil is a separate stirrup piece that sits inverted in the primer cup providing sufficient resistance to the impact of the firing pin as it indents the cup and crushes the pressure-sensitive ignition compound. The primer pocket in the case head has a single flash-hole in its center.
Important Notes:
1) Both Berden Primed and Boxer Primed Ammo can be used in a firearm as long as the cartridge dimensions are correct (correct caliber for the firearm).
2) Most Military Surplus Ammo sold on the market today is Berden Primed.
3) Just because the ammo is Berden Primed does not make it corrosive. But as a general rule it is best to assume the ammunition, if military surplus, is Corrosive.
4) Many manufacturers outside of the USA make Steel Cased Ammo which is generally corrosive, to avoid corrosion a lacquer coat is applied to the cartridge shell casing and primer. This also prevents the ammo from deteriorating from storage.
5) Lacquer Coated Ammo can cause problems especially with Bolt Action rifles like the British 303 Enfield and the German 8mm Mauser. The lacquer gets hot, melts and causes the bolt to stick or jam. This same issue can cause American made assault type weapons to misfeed or jam.
6) Just because the ammunition is Brass Cased does not mean it is not Berden Primed. The same goes for the so-called magnet test on a cartridge. Just because it is non-magnetic doesn't mean it is not Berden Primed.
7) Ammunition is often stamped non-corrosive because they apply a lacquer coat to the shell case and primer, this doesn't mean you won't have issues shooting it as described above.
8) Soviet and Chinese style assault weapons such as the AK-47 and the SKS are designed to shoot corrosive ammo, so basically if it's the right caliber they will fire anything.
9) It is common for Military Surplus Ammo to come in Stripper Clips. If desired, this ammo can easily be removed one round at a time.
Conclusion:
Always assume ALL ammo is corrosive unless it sates otherwise. And, even if it says non-corrosive but is steel cased and lacquer coated I would avoid shooting it unless you have a AK or SKS. Commonly found in the USA is a brand of ammo called TulAmmo. This is steel cased, Berden Primed, and lacquered coated. Always assume Military Style Ammo is corrosive and Berden Primed unless it states otherwise.
When shooting any Military Surplus Ammo or Berden Primed (if marked) immediately clean your firearm after use.
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